Refinishing Hardwood Stairs - After Carpet Removed
I know some will want to handle this project themselves, but
many of us simply want to know what’s going to happen calling in a professional. You can view that with my well detailed video below.
About This Job
This job example that took place in Troy, Michigan covers a standard 10 step staircase with two small pie shaped landings. The home was built in the 1970’s where carpet also covered them for a period of twenty years. Condition wise, there was some board separation (gapping) on the landings and wear to bare wood in many areas where standard oak treads were used.
The stairs were sanded and stained with a Dura Seal nutmeg color the first day that took about six hours with one professional working the job. The following day a sealer coat was added along with two coats of Streeshoe275 water based satin finish.
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Stairs before |
Stairs after |
How Long Did The Job Take?
Total down time for the home owner came in at 32 hours where the job started at 8 AM the first day and completed at 3 PM the next. Absolutely no traffic was permitted the first night after the stain procedure. Light foot traffic was permitted after the second day finish coatings and regular traffic the third day.
Had this been an oil based application downtime would have reached four days unless newer on site UV curing equipment had been used.
How Much Did It Cost?
Total cost came in at $ 800.00. Expect your professional costs to vary from this number.
View The Job Video
Contributing Video Contractor: Justin Havner. Al Havner Hardwood, Detroit
Specialty: Refinishing
Location: Metro Detroit
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Transcript of the video
Sanding and finishing stairs is serious business. Not only because
you’re spending good money to get professional results, but the tools and experience behind the one doing the work is the only type of result we expect. Folks, amateur hour does not belong here if the only tool being considered is a palm sander or maybe a belt sander and a couple of sand paper grits. Stairs get beat up over the years and they need the proper techniques, tools and qualified pros to bring them back to life.
Most finishers will first look for any nails that have been used in the original construction. These get taken care of with a hammer and nail set. Once all that work is done it’s time to start with a course 36 grit sandpaper on the edging tool. Edgers have serious power. Extra insurance is taken out by laying on it’s side and plugged in rather than turned on by the switch.
What kind of power? Proof is in the pictures as the finisher spends a few short minutes with the 36 grit paper that takes everything down to bare wood with no older finishes showing, except the edges that get taken care of with the hand scraper later. Handling the edger requires fluid motions while making sure at the same time to sand all areas the same consistency.
Once the finisher is done with the first grit, vacuuming takes place to keep a good clean work area and readies it for filling cracks and nail holes. This set of film clips shows which areas the edger took care of and what areas require hand scraping and hand sanding.
In the next step the finisher works up some wood filler. In years gone by, most had a concoction of fine sanding dust mixed with whatever worked best for them. Today, manufacturers have water soluble fillers used for different hardwood species. Here we’re using one for red oak floors.
These fillers also dry quickly and become ready in less than an hour for the next sanding sequence which calls for placing 60 grit sand paper on the edger. The purpose of this sanding step is two fold. One, it begins to eliminate the deeper grit sanding marks created by the coarser 36 grit, and number two removal of excess filler and creates a smoother appearance and feel. Once again, fluid and consistent motions are important while covering all areas.
Hitting all those areas the edger couldn’t reach is next, beginning with a sharp hand scraper. This is one area where the want to be floor finisher always fails with. Once again it’s about smooth and consistent motions where the finisher removes only what’s needed, followed up with a light sanding.
Moving along after another vacuum cleanup is the final step before stain is applied to the steps. Here a small random orbital is used with 100 grit to even out any sanding marks left with the previous steps. The purpose is to create a uniform pattern and surface where the stain is applied evenly.
The vacuum will always get a workout with good floor professionals. Here the finisher once again goes over the areas thoroughly in preparation for the staining process that calls for a nutmeg color from Dura Seal.
So maybe you’re thinking, how much time was involved so far? Two pie shaped landings and ten steps, eight of which are mostly out of view that lead to the second level of this house, have taken up about six hours.
The final work in day one involves staining the steps. Here a nutmeg stain color from Dura Seal is applied then wiped off all the stair step and landing areas. This is then left to dry overnight with absolutely no foot traffic allowed until the next morning.
For the final finish coat application lot’s of preparation is involved prior that first includes hand screening all the areas. This procedure smoothes out any roughness while creating an ideal surface for the final coat to bond to.
More vacuuming takes place, before still two more preparation steps before the finish coat is applied. Those two steps include tacking all the areas with a damp rag, followed up with a cheesecloth that has a mild tacky substance handling any debris or dust that may be left.
In applying the final finish coat, a catalyst is added. According to the manufacturer, this addition gives the finish an ultimate scuff and mar resistance property. Mixed thoroughly, we’re ready for the last coat of finish.
As in many of the sanding and scraping steps we’ve seen, the application of the finish is also about fluid motion and consistency in making sure an even coat is applied. All told this job took one and a half days, but can depend on environmental factors with drying time.
