Unfinished Engineered Hardwood Flooring - 3/4 Inch Thick
|· USA Amish Made in Ohio|
|· 3 ¼ - 8 ¼" width|
|· ¾ Inch thick. 11 ply|
|· 6 mm wear layer|
|· 12-96 inch random lengths|
|· Unfinished (square edge, end matched) Bevel option|
|· Complimenting stair treads, risers and other millwork|
Unfinished Engineered White Oak
$ 6.50 S/F
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$ 6.00 S/F
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$ 6.70 S/F
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- starts at
$ 6.50 S/F
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Unfinished Engineered Red Oak
Unfinished Engineered Hickory
Unfinished Engineered American Walnut
$ 7.60 S/F
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$ 9.70 S/F
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$ 6.80 S/F
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Clear will offer a character free appearance with some lighter sapwood. Clear no sap is exactly what it says. Expect far more sapwood with smaller and larger closed knots with the character.
Ash Characterstarts at
$ 6.00 S/F
Cherry Characterstarts at
$ 6.30 S/F
Maple Characterstarts at
$ 5.90 S/F
Unlike prefinished hardwood floor installations, site finished refers to the actual installation of unfinished hardwood, then it's finished on site. Hence, the name site finished. This kind of procedure is more commonplace with higher end homes or those seeking a near flawless appearance on completion.
Flawless Appearance You Say?
Once the floor is sanded and coated with the preferred finish it may appear flawless. This type would be better described as being vertically and horizontally flush or flat without any separations in the form of gaps or bevels between the boards. Depending on the finishes used and number of coats, it can provide a smooth like surface feel or visual, unless one preferred a site finished beveled floor. Yes, unfinished beveled hardwood can be obtained.
More Options With Color
Unfinished flooring offers more possibilities with color schemes and not your standard stains in the likes of Gunstock and Saddle to name a few. Colors run the gambit and can be created by simply getting together with an experienced floor finisher.
Create Your Own Color
Rubio Monocoat is by far the leading producer of eco friendly stains. Water based and very user friendly, there are unlimited options with color. Best yet, if you’re determined to create a color of your own or choose from their standard colors, a sample kit can be ordered that includes smoked or fumed effects.
Colors below applied to White Oak.
Mixing Cashmere Brown & Antique Beige
Cashmere Brown & Antique Beige
If I was given a choice in using oil or water based finishes, I would choose the friendlier water based urethanes. The opinion may be biased, but there are good reasons to back up my choice as I’ve worked with both the last 16 years. Over the years, water based finishes have evolved into the best finish in many ways discussed below.
The one drawback evidenced by professionals lies in that water-borne poly can and often will raise the grain of wood thereby causing the flooring to be rough. This only happens with the first coat. After that, the wood is sealed enough so as not to be affected by consecutive coats. Therefore, the professional usually knows how to eliminate the problem by using a special alcohol based sealer.
The alcohol in this sealer does not raise the grain thereby creating a great barrier coat between the bare wood (or stain) and that first coat of water-based poly which would otherwise raise the grain. This alcohol product is a new patented de-waxed shellac. With the wax removed it becomes a universal sealer. When finishing is done this way, it becomes known as a "hybrid finish". The adherence of poly to this shellac is very good, and it can give you the warm, slightly tinted appearance that you can have with the oil-based, but less severe.
Appearances Different From Oil Based
A couple more things about water-based finishes; they will not darken with time as does oil-based poly. Water-based poly is absolutely clear and remains that way for years. For this reason, water-based poly is becoming more and more desirable on gymnasium floors; the maple flooring remains light and natural without the darkening and ambering. Also, all sheens (satin, semi-gloss, gloss) have the same durability, and a two-component (poly with a hardener additive) water-based poly is harder than any oil-based polyurethane. This is proven through laboratory, 9-step testing.
If the use of water-based poly sounds like more than you want to tackle in your home, don't hesitate to contact a professional who is well versed in the use of water-borne polyurethane...the wave of the future.
In conclusion, I hope I've presented a few facts that will help you decide on what's best for you and the consumer. Understanding the pros and cons of these types of finishes can help in making informed decisions. In turn, it can help you to give your floors the best protection that will help maintain your floor's beauty for years to come.
When I think of all the homes I invade with my machinery and noise, one reality that must be addressed is that people want me out of their homes as soon as possible. In light of this, consider these facts about water-based poly:
• One coat down every hour. This one fact enables me to knock 1-2 days off the job which greatly satisfies the homeowner and allows them to get back to their routine of life sooner than if I had used oil-based poly.
• There are very few fumes. In fact, by the first day after I’ve finished the last coat, people have told me that they can’t even smell the fumes. Even a customer who has Environmental Illness (allergic to most fumes) was able to safely walk into his house without any reaction the day after I put on the final coat of water-based poly.
• Any given coat will dry enough in 1 hour so that the owners can walk on it.
• The water-based finishes (with hardener) has proven to be tougher, more durable, and more resistant to household spills.
Contractor Opinion - Water Based Vs Water Based
Whether you’re refinishing antique wood floors or purchasing new site-finished wood floors, there’s a sealer/finish that’s right for you. Let’s take a quick look at some of the products available to your local wood flooring pro and try to figure out which one might work the best for your application.
Oil-Based Polyurethane (OBP) floor sealers and finishes have been around for over 60 years. When they came into popularity among contractors and homeowners, the previously acceptable finish was paste wax, which required frequent ongoing maintenance to keep up with. OBP offered a significant leap in durability over paste wax and changed wood flooring forever. They’re still used today and quite popular with the old guard of wood flooring pros.
When I think of Oil Based, I think of 3 things:
• Low Price: least expensive at $18-$30 per gallon
• Simplicity: easiest to use, slower drying*, longer flowing
• Strong Fumes: very strong odor which lingers for days
Water-Based Polyurethane (WBP) floor sealers and finishes were introduced to the wood flooring industry in the 1990’s as an answer to OBP’s two biggest downsides; smell, and long dry times. Now you may be scratching your head right now because earlier in the discussion, I said that longer, slower drying was a plus because it made the product easier to use. This is true. Longer drying time does translate into a more forgiving product for the finisher to apply; however, this is a double-edged sword. Slower drying products translate into more project days compared to fast drying WBP. The unique benefits of WBP were almost immediately recognized by wood flooring pros but they weren’t universally adopted by all.
When I think of Water Based, these 4 things come to mind:
• High Price: more expensive at $39-$110 per gallon
• Fast Dry: more coats in fewer days and shorter cure time
• Durability: improved scratch resistance and chemical resistance
• Low Odor: many of these are certified Low VOC
Oil-Based vs. Water-Based. Translated Into Square Feet Costs
Question: Why would I recommend OBP over WBP?
Answer No.1: Price. For example, if I install 1,000 square feet of red oak floors I could use OBP and spend $220 in product or choose a WBP and spend $440. A homeowner on a tight budget might not spring for the extra $220.00.
Answer No.2: Condition. Recently we refinished older floors in a very old house. The slower drying, deeper penetrating OBP offered enhanced fortification for the antique wood that the faster drying WBP wasn’t likely to provide. Some pros may criticize us for that choice but the end result looked as good as it gets. Besides, the top layer can be recoated with WBP to take advantage of the enhanced durability that it offers.
Question: Why would I recommend WBP over OBP?
Answer No.1: Convenience. The absence of the strong, irritating odor of OBP makes it possible for a homeowner to stay in their home instead of sleeping somewhere else at night. The fumes from OBP are not good for food, pets, or people.
Answer No.2: Durability. Enhanced chemistry in the WBP means that your floors won’t need recoating as soon as they would have if OBP was used. If you plan to sell your home in less than 3 years, you won’t reap the benefit of improved durability.
Answer No.3: Environment. If you're really sensitive to environmental issues, WBP will offer the peace of mind that your finish isn't polluting the air or your lungs nearly as bad as the OBP. Hopefully this provides you with some insight into the process of selecting an appropriate wood floor finish. Ask your contractor what they recommend for your project and why.
See The Jobsite Application Video
Transcript of the video
Today there’s far too much hype in how home improvement TV programs make this business look like a twelve year old can handle it. Want to know the truth? They’re missing out on the important details and preparation to get the job done right. Lack of knowledge in how to handle jobs like this is the leading contributor to failure.
So what’s it take to get the job done right? Years of knowledge, experience and pride in the work; a tough commodity to come by today with so many looking to make a fast buck and move on. Yea, it may look good for a few months with the low priced guy that works out of a ‘78 Dodge pickup truck. He’ll probably be dragging some of this into the house too. If that happens to you; shut the door Irene! Unless of course you just love his price and that’s that.
In this job a new 3 ¼” select & better red oak was installed, sanded and stained the previous day. It was then left to dry overnight where the finishers began prepping for a sealer coat the next day that gets followed with two coats of a water based satin finish.
The sealer being used on this job is ideal for those that don’t want that washed out water based appearance. It’s formulated to provide a rich amber toned color that we see in oil based finishes. Here one of the finishers begins by cutting in areas where the regular applicator cannot reach. This is then followed up by the other finisher who works with a nine inch wide applicator and pours the right amount of sealer that will cover the area the first finisher has cut in.
Techniques will vary slightly from one pro to another or what they’re comfortable with or even how they were taught. The focus or area of importance is creating an even consistent flow and proper coverage as the finisher shows us here with some close-ups.
Drying times will vary depending on relative humidity. A higher level will take longer whereas a low level will take the least amount of time. At this stage the sealer has been applied along with the first finish coat. In the next step the finisher applies some 3M stickit Gold 220 grit paper to a buffing pad. The purpose here is to lightly sand the previous coat in the least aggressive way possible. This procedure is used more for flattening out the second coat and removes little of the actual finish while buffing with a stepped up pace here.
Prior to the final finish coat, vacuuming procedures are followed again to remove debris left behind by the light sanding. The vacuum won’t get all the fine dust up so the finisher resorts to tacking the floor with towels damp enough the pull any excess dust off the floor.
For the actual finish coats, Basic Coatings Street shoe satin finish is used. A catalyst is added slowly and mixed thoroughly. The purpose of the catalyst is to increase scuff and mar resistance so you don’t get those annoying rubber heel drag marks. Finally the container is shaken lightly to mix any solids that may have settled on the bottom.
The same procedures we saw earlier are then followed.
Contractor Talk - Oil Based Finishes
First impressions came to mind when I began to organize my notes to write this summary of oil based finishes. I did not want to make any absolute statements as the proper preparation, application and environment is vital to the successful outcome of any finish application. I also knew many would get a better understanding by comparing oil to water based finishes.
I will mention that the oil or solvent based finishes discussed will be oil based polyurethane (sometimes called oil modified poly or OMU). The reason I clarify this is because there are other solvent based floor finishes that have certainly earned a place of honor in the floor refinishing trade.
Old Smelly Finishes Are Disappearing
Solvent type finishes are being slowly eliminated because of health issues, changing environmental laws, and a general offensiveness to the senses. Examples of these finishes are: acid cure and moisture cure floor finishes. And as you understand more about polyurethane finishes, hopefully you'll agree that there are better options for the homeowner and professional alike.
To begin, the purpose of any floor finish should be to enhance the beauty of the wood and protect it from outside elements. All polyurethane, whether oil or water based, are a film-building finish. Contrary to popular belief, polyurethane does not penetrate into the wood. It's a surface build protection. And in laymen's terms, polyurethane is plastic.
Doesn't Cure Quickly
Looking specifically first at oil based polyurethane. It was always interesting to learn, this type of finish has been around in the United States since about 1936 when Fabulon Co. first started making it for bowling allies. Today, their OMU is still known for its capabilities of flowing out to a smooth and durable finish. These are the same qualities that most reputable companies have strived to attain as well. A coat of this kind of poly can dry and be recoated in approximately 12 hours.
Humidity and temperature can slightly change this 12 hour period. This type of finish will take 3-7 days to cure hard enough before furniture can be placed back onto the floor. Unfortunately, the smell of oil based poly will linger for several days or even weeks. This has been one objection to people who suffer from allergies and sensitivities.
Oil based poly has a way of filling in and flowing over the open grain of many hardwoods. This gives a desirable "grain filled" characteristic. And it will develop into an amber (brownish-orange) look as it ages over the next several months. The amber look is a nice addition to this type of polyurethane especially if you want a warm tinted look.
Oil based poly will always have a place in the hardwood floor industry, but with the trendy changes in law we can expect that newer, more competitive finishes will emerge.
Sealers & Finishes - Differences Explained
What is a sealer and what is a finish? While some good polyurethanes can do double duty as a sealer and finish, I can appreciate the roles that each product plays and the unique properties they need to maximize their effectiveness.
Let’s begin with the end in mind: the finish. A finish is the final coating applied to the floor that will be exposed to traffic and wear. In other words, this is what you’ll be walking on.
Properties Associated With a Superior Finish Coating
• For the contractor, you want it to flow well for an even coat without brush or roller marks
• Cure quickly so the floor can be returned to use
• Produce an even sheen across the floor
• Resist abrasion and erosion from traffic
• Provide adequate chemical resistance against spills from wine, food, and cleaning solution
The properties that make a good finish, don’t necessarily need to be in your sealer and this is why I often turn to a system instead of just one product for sealing and finishing.
Good Sealer Qualities
• Penetrate into the floor to fortify the wood
• Block any potential issues with tannins (see tannin details)
• Sand easily and build evenly in preparation for the finish
• Dry crystal clear with no applicator marks or heavy spots
• Dry fast with an open recoat window for multiple coats in a day without abrading
As you can see, the best features of a sealer are unique when compared to those of a finish and vice versa. Compare this to the one size fits all approach of other products and you can see why this might be smarter and deliver superior results.
What are tannins? Tannins are naturally occurring, water soluble compounds found in wood. Their presence or concentration can’t be predicted because they cannot be detected visually until it’s too late. Tannins can potentially migrate to the surface of a wood floor when using a water based sealer, resulting in discoloration or bleed.
Most people describe tannin bleed as looking like a coffee stain under the sealer. Tannin bleeding will produce an undesirable discoloration in the wood which will require resanding the area to remove it completely. Tannins are not damaging to wood and won’t degrade the quality or performance of the coating.
Stair Treads, Risers & Other Millwork - offered with all products.
·Single return (1 ½ inch setback, bullnosed)
·36 - 96 inch lengths
·Nosing 3 ½ & 5 ½ widths